The Tsum Valley, nestled in northern Gorkha, unfolds as a sanctuary enriched with deep-rooted traditions, art, and spirituality. Its inhabitants, with their origins tracing back to Tibet, preserve a unique dialect, anchoring the valley firmly to its ancestral roots. As one of the Himalayas' most secluded sanctuaries, Tsum Valley remained a hidden gem until 2008, with restrictions limiting access to its untouched splendor. The valley's cultural tapestry is vividly colored by its devout community, housing significant monasteries like Rachen and Mu Gompas, which stand as testaments to the area's profound spiritual lineage.
Embarking on a journey to Tsum Valley begins with a picturesque drive to Arughat, followed by Soti Khola. The trail meanders upstream along the Budhi Gandaki valley, weaving through quaint villages and forests draped in rhododendron and pine. The path from Soti Khola to Jagat then leads to Lokpa, the gateway into the mystical Tsum Valley.
Venturing into Lokpa, the trail ascends towards Chumling, a village cradled by three monasteries: Pango Gumba, Gurwa Gumba, and Mani Dhungyr, offering breathtaking vistas of the towering Manaslu (8,163m), Himal Chuli (7,893m), and Ganesh Himal (7,140m). The trek progresses from Chumling to Chhokangparo, passing through Domje, the largest village in Tsum Valley, where the landscape transitions from lush sub-tropical forests to alpine pastures and high desert plains.
The trek's northern trajectory continues from Chhokangparo, skirting the revered Milarepa's Piren Phu Cave, through Phurbe and onwards to the Nile. The journey's zenith is reached at Mu Gompa, the northernmost point of the trek, nestled close to the Tibetan border. The valley's spiritual essence is palpable, with legends of the Buddhist sage Milarepa's meditations in the surrounding caves, and the Shear Khola river, originating from the Ganesh Himal glacier, enriching the valley's lifeblood before merging with the Budhi Gandaki River.
The return journey from Mu Gompa unfolds a new vista, detouring through Phurbe to Rachen Gompa, marking the beginning of the trek's southern descent. From Rachen Gompa, the path diverges southward to Domje, leading adventurers to the Ganesh Himal Base Camp (4,800m) via Gumba Lungdang, offering a final homage to the valley's majestic guardians.
From the base camp, the trail retraces its steps to Lokpa and Jagat, where a night's rest prepares trekkers for the final leg back to Lapu Bensi and Arughat. The journey concludes with a local bus ride, whisking adventurers back to the bustling life of Kathmandu, carrying with them the serene echoes and vivid memories of Tsum Valley's ancient culture, breathtaking landscapes, and spiritual tranquility.